Cycling in Belgium - Flanders tour - 160kms

In Belgium there is the Vlaanderan Fietsroute (the Flanders Cycle Route) some 800kms long plus many ancillary cycle paths well sign posted and very well used.

So our two intrepid older cyclists from Kiwiland namely Sammo and Evan, ably assisted by the Greystoners (Clifford and Delores), set out to go from Huldenberg to Ghent and back again. The first leg was to Leuven by bike and we picked up the train from Leuven to Ghent arriving mid afternoon and checking into the Hotel Adoma. Getting the bikes on and off the train was an exercise in itself ably asssisted by a grumpy guard. Grumpy maybe since we orginally got into a 1st class carriage, but no problem we soon were escorted into the right carriage albeit at the wrong level. C'est las Vie or what ever that is in Flemish!

Anyway last things first. This first picture is of Sammo at the end of the trip outside the Stella Artois brewery in Leuven on the Friday. Yes we made it back to Leuven - more later.

From Ghent we cycled the next day Wednesday 1st September to Dendermonde and then the next day to Boom and then on Friday to Leuven where Saint Michael took our bags back to Huldenberg and we cycled back to Huldenberg enjoying the down hills but not the ups or the wobblestones on the appropriately named Aardveg just outside Duisberg. Very few wobble stones on the whole trip but where we experienced them they tested sore bums and loaded bladders.


Sam at Leuven near the end of the trip - her favourite beer spot!


Sam powering away to her favourite beer spot - this time the Cafe Maritime some 10 kms to go to Leuven.

Evan in the bowels of the two decker train on the way to Ghent with the bikes all tied down and shipshape.

Evan in Ghent on the first day talking to the lady statue on the working boat. Many of the corner bars do not serve food, some do but not between 3pm and 6pm. So we had to leave the Irish Bar after only one beer no food and get pastries from a corner bakery and munch them by canalside.

So many wonderful spires, churches and historic buildings all through Belgium - Ghent is one of the most historic, old and beautiful cities one could imagine. Sammo posing in the main square of Ghent. Every city has a town hall, what's new about that you say, well these are so ornate and decorated with stories and saints, they are amazing structures.

The scenery all along the Schelde river was fantastic with much barge traffic. Antwerpen was not far away when we left Scheldenland on the last day and the river was very tidal but slow flowing. A lot of 'racing boys' on bikes were experienced together with many couples cycling both ways along the river. Nice and flat and no 'wobblestones.' Very well sign posted all the way - although one has to keep an eye out especially when the route meets the smaller townships along the way.

Some of many other cyclists are shown above enjoying the lovely weather - sunny and around 22C during the day.

Sammo showing the way on LF 2 and LF 5 cycle ways in Flanders.



We 'raced' this barge doing some 7 kms/hr and won! That is until it caught us again when we were 'resting!' Note the modern windmill in the background. We saw about 10 in the whole journey and most of the time they were 'resting' too.

Floriculture above showing wonderful colours. The Flander's countryside is very closely farmed; wheat, potatoes, sugar beet, maize, flowers and extensive glasshouse installations. So different to Kiwiland and so densly populated. Most livestock is inside most of the year so there is very little need for fences.

Sammo reading the maps to make sure we didn't miss any turnings. Only two missed turnings in 160kms resulting in one day at Dendermonde adding some 15 extra kms. Buggeur they sighed! Still a hot bath and finding a pub just 1 1/2 kms from the B&B helped ease the debate and the buns. The Dendermonde B&B outside of the city some 6 kms was a beauty - good bath, shower, bed and excellent breakfast. Pieter Pauwel B&B. Saw our first lock on the way to it but didn't have to cross it although if we had we would have saved about 1km and a big uphill bridge over the canal.

Picture above in this B&B and Evan showing off the riding padded suit that Sammo wore. Great stuff those suits - the buns swear by them!

This home is near to Appels close by to Dendermonde - beautifully tended. Quite a fairy tale place. We both saw many things that Begium home owners do to present their homes and gardens and got many new ideas. Espaliering fruit trees is a major pastime for many home gardeners as is the use of 'common garden' plots on common lands.

Evan in full flight above - average speed about 12kms per hour (including stops). Our trip was dominated by 'smelling the roses' and we talked often with people at stops - particulary when we came up against the 'voetveer' services - free ferries across the canals. More on these later - very civilised and very tourist friendly.

Wow! Another major spire and church at Baasrode on our way to Boom where we intend to spend the night. "No bookings needed," says Sammo, "we will take it as it comes, won't we?" "Your wish is my command my dear," is the best reply under the circumstances. Her being much the younger in the 'olde stakes.'

And our first experience using a voetveer, this time across the Schelde river between Zwijn and Sint Amands. The man in the photo (the slimmer one) was fishing and we ended up having a 45 minute conversation in Kiwi with him. He was most intrigued that two olde Kiwis had come all the way to cycle Flanders. He showed us how to drop the notice to give the ferry man the message that we wanted to cross. An interesting interlude with a local who told us a lot about the area and himself. We had a slight contest who would catch what first. Us the ferry or him the fish. A 250ml bottle of Greystoned Gin for the first correct answer from all you avid followers.

This is a picture of the ferry across at Sint Amands. The ferry crossing took all of 5 minutes and was 'free,' 'gratis,' no tips required. Modern up to date ferries and all free along the way.

And here is the somewhat slimmer one at Sint Amands. This is a major holiday area on the Schelde with wonderful facilities for tourists, mainly Belgium persons we were informed.

And of course another castle! This one in Weert is famous and has a very unique history and open to the public. It is the Castle van Marmix de Saint Aldegonde and is in a very lovely setting surrounded by farmlands and on a tributary water way called the Oude Schelde. We had a splendid repast, made by Sammo from the left overs from breakfast at the Dendemonde B&B, washed down with contents from the water bottles. No! No beers were consumed! What?

And course the 'Greystoners' joined in, showing us how to handle the big bikes. And so off to Boom where we just happened to stop for a pause in the rather large town and right opposite us was the Hotel Domus. 'Quelle fantastique' was the reaction of the older one. "No more wobblestones and slightly sore-ish buns for us today!" "Book the bastard!" And so we stayed at said hotel for the evening. Even more delights were in store. Pre-dinner drinkies (many!) and wonderful hospitality and conversations with the owners and managers. Once again very informed, hospitable, friendly people. Broad world views and interesting points of view regarding how different cultures and ethnicities cope in Belgium and New Zealand. They couldn't do enough for us and the facilities were high-class. An old building very well renovated and added to with private gardens at the back with a 4m high brick wall keeping us safe from the possible ministrations of the local church immediately over said wall. A local we talked to suggested a meal at either a modern or old style establishment. Well, being the 'oldes' that we are, guess which one we chose. A lovely meal at 'Den Boom', with a very helpful waiter who knew his job.

Excellent breakfast and off the next day which as it turned out ended up in Huldenberg. Sammo the intrepid navigateuse found a 'short-cut' through Leest which took us away from the LF2 that we joined at Rumst and down the Dijle Canal past Mechelen with Leuven in our sights.

Suffice to say that a time trial was had between the two intrepid wayfarers. A 2km trial having been told food and drinkies were available at the Cafe Maritime 2 km away. 2nd prize for the second avid follower who first guesses who won is two bottles of Greystoned Gin! 1st prize is one bottle. A clue? Food and booze (whoops drinkies) was at the end of the time trial.

And so after a good hour of consuming (not consummation) we set our sails and sped to Leuven arriving about 4pm having informed St Michael of Huldenberg that we would meet him at his workplace for the shedding of the luggages.

What another major building with spires? This one on the outskirts of Mechelen closely followed by the Stella Artois edifices a few kilometers onwards.

But wait, we had just crossed this lock after a beer when the bells rang and the bridge hinged skywards - all for a baby barge (by comparison with the Schelde ones) passed through.

Yes! This one of the time trialers speeding to Leuven - answers to the name of Sammo!

Here she is again only metres from the Stella Artois Temple of Dreams!

And? Yes it is the Temple of Dreams!!

St Michael met us after we successfully negotiated Leuven, grabbed our luggage and left us for our high speed return the 12 kms to Huldenberg, arriving at 6pm to see Jean Marc, Raphael and the Saint wrestling with a massive tree stump.

No more wobblestones, buns relieved and sleep came easily later that evening after a number of internal doses of quaff mixtures.

Herendeth the saga! A wonderful, never-to-be-forgotten experience. A Flanders Cycling Tour? Highly recommended!